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Cuir De Russie - Russian Leather, Français - English
Le Jardin Retrou...
post 26-Feb-2006, 08:27 PM
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Français :

La note "CUIR" a depuis de très nombreuses années intéressé les Parfumeurs par sa richesse, sa plénitude et son côté un peu "animal". Qui d'entre nous n'a pas senti, avec un certain plaisir sensuel, la chaude odeur d'un objet neuf en cuir ? Parmi les notes "CUIR" que les parfumeurs ont imaginées et réalisées, la note CUIR DE RUSSIE tient une place de choix.

Qu'est ce que le CUIR DE RUSSIE ? Il semble que ce cuir très beau et très souple soit apparu en France avec les Ballets Russes de Diaghilev au début du XXéme siècle. En effet, les danseurs portaient des bottes de cuir souples (dont le nom en russe est SAFIAN) : le succès de ces Ballets lança la mode de ce cuir spécial qui fut aussi employé en reliure.

Bien entendu, les parfumeurs, curieux et avides d'enrichir leur palette, se sont penchés sur cette nouvelle source de création. Le début du XXéme siècle a donc vu naître des parfums "CUIR DE RUSSIE".

Chaque Parfumeur-Créateur possède son propre secret pour réaliser la note CUIR DE RUSSIE et plusieurs interprétations ont connu une vogue entre 1905 et 1935 sans d'ailleurs se ressembler. Le créateur y apportait une touche de sa personnalité, élaborant son "bouquet" suivant sa fantaisie ; seule la trame CUIR demeurait partout plus ou moins la même. Au gré de son inspiration, il habillait cette base de CUIR de notes florales afin de l'adoucir.

En faisant revivre cette odeur tombée dans l'oubli, le Parfumeur-Créateur du Jardin Retrouvé à introduit une nouvelle interprétation de la note CUIR DE RUSSIE. Tout en restant dans la grande tradition de la parfumerie Française, il se distingue par son originalité due à un ensemble de notes florales et vertes, diffusantes et tenaces qui exaltent la richesse et la chaleur de notre EAU CUIR DE RUSSIE.

English :

The odour of leather has interested Perfumers for a long time because of its richness, its fullness and its slightly animal quality. Who amongst us has not inhaled, with a certain sensual pleasure, the warm scent of a new leather object? Among the "LEATHER" perfumes that Perfume Creators have imagined and invented, RUSSIAN LEATHER holds a place of choice.

What is RUSSIAN LEATHER? As the story goes, this beautiful and supple leather first appeared in France with Diaghilev's Russian Ballet troupe. The dancers wore supple leather boots (called SAFIAN in Russian). The success of these Ballets also launched a vogue for this special leather which was also used for book-binding.

Of course, Perfumers, curious and eager to enrich their palettes, were soon interested in this new source of creation and the beginning of the 20th century saw the birth of many perfumes called CUIR DE RUSSIE.

Every Perfumer has his personal secret for creating his own CUIR DE RUSSIE and several interpretations were available between 1905 and 1935 without, however, any of them resembling each other. Each creator brought to it a touch of his own personality, adapting the fragrance to his own imagination. Only the LEATHER note remained more-or-less the same in each case. Following his inspiration, he envelopes the LEATHER base note in floral essences to soften its piquancy.

In reviving this forgotten perfume, the Perfume Creator of Le Jardin Retrouvé has created a brand new interpretation of RUSSIAN LEATHER. While it still follows the strict traditions of French perfumery-making, it is distinguishable by its originality stemming from the various flowery and green notes, diffused and long-lasting, exhalting the the richness and warmth of the Jardin Retrouvé's RUSSIAN LEATHER.

What they say about it:


Cologne Parfume: It is not as sharp as Cabochard, which may be a good thing, and it softens significantly faster. At it's end point, it is floral, like Cabochard perfume, but it has a different nuance. I am applying from a small vial, so dabbing not spritzing. As such, it stays close to my skin, like a perfume. I don't smell any alcohol that has to burn off to get to the scent.

I like the movement of the fragrance. It is almost like a symphony where the music begins soft, moves to a crescendo, then soft again, like flowing water.


Perfume Critic.com: A complete retro throwback to simpler times and quality ingredients; wonderful warm drydown.


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Le Jardin Retrouvé
3 cour Jasmin
FR - 75016 Paris
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